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Expat’s Paradise

The neighborhood of Thamel is the cultural soul of Kathmandu, a bright bohemian hangout for hippies, trekkers, and travelers alike. A melting pot of music and culture, Thamel became famous in the 60s and 70s by visiting rock-and-roll icons: The Beatles, Jim Morrison, Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix, and the Rolling Stones. And their music can still be heard today, blasting from bars and teashops along the bustling, cobblestone streets. Thamel is a haunt for medical interns, peace workers, volunteers, expatriates,* and graying hippies from every country imaginable.

At a favorite hangout called the Buddha Bar I met people from England, Australia, The Netherlands, France, several African countries, China, and Ireland, all sharing stories of their Nepali adventures. At Buddha Bar, Nepali musicians sang Bob Dylan tunes and other rock classics, as well as their own country’s folk music.

Children of the Valley

Many people think of Nepal as an exotic land of deep spirituality and mystical charm, but it is also one of the poorest countries in the world. A recent peace agreement has ended a ten-year civil war between the Maoists, the royal army and other factions. Now, Nepal is a blossoming democracy, but one with many problems. Thousands died in the conflict, leaving many children impoverished and homeless. At night, hundreds of homeless orphans claim temple floors as their beds, sleeping among the stray dogs. Starvation is far too common, and many children are plagued by disease, as proper healthcare is nearly nonexistent. Many of the homeless are missing eyes or limbs, are crippled, or have tumors.

One of the most rewarding experiences I had in Nepal was visiting a local school with Rama, my host mother. Smiling, beautiful children all dressed in white and grey uniforms stood in unison and greeted me with a warm, “Namaste, Didi.” Many of these children will go home hungry, as families sacrifice everything to give their children an education and a better life.

Out of her own pocket, Rama pays for several children’s schooling already and she recently took in two children and their homeless mothers, who had been abandoned by the fathers, and gave them jobs in her home.

Six-year-old Babu*, as I called him, loved throwing fruit into Rama’s fish tank, watching intently as the fish quickly dart away. “No, Babu!” I would chide. But he would just giggle and run off in search of chocolates and more mischief.

Rama told me that she could no longer afford to pay for a 12-year-old girl who was enrolled at the school and the girl would have to be married off in an arranged marriage, probably with a much older man that she didn’t even know! Many thought it was her only hope out of a life of poverty, but, even then, many women in arranged marriages have no rights and live nearly as slaves in their own homes.

Babu was destined for a life of homelessness or, at best, as an indentured servant like his mother. If they were enrolled in school, it would change their lives. I asked Rama to take me to the school. I donated $200 towards their tuition and vowed to raise more funds for them and other children. The children came into the room beaming, wearing their backpacks and starched uniforms. Rama and I looked at them with tears in our eyes. They had a new life ahead of them—a life of hope.

Namaste, Nepal!

My dream is to go into the Peace Corps and work as an international journalist. A journalism internship in Kathmandu was an incredible blessing and a huge step toward my dream. As a final assignment, I interviewed the new U.S. Ambassador of Nepal, Nancy J. Powell, who had been my mother’s history teacher in small town Iowa more than 30 years before. During our interview at the U.S. Embassy, Ambassador Powell told me that one of her greatest hopes for Nepal was to empower and educate women and girls. Two hours after my meeting, she officially presented her credentials [officially took the office of ambassador] to the Prime Minister and Parliament.

Sophie interviewed the new U.S. Ambassador of Nepal, Nancy J. Powell. "Ambassador Powell told me that one of her greatest hopes for Nepal was to empower and educate women and girls."

My last night in Kathmandu was a blur of emotions. Rama rubbed a red tika* on my forehead to protect me for my long journey home as a parting blessing. Sitting in the Kathmandu airport, I watched as families rubbed tikas on their parting loved ones.

My trip back home was not a pleasant one. I had a ten-hour layover in New Dehli, by many accounts one of the worst airports in the world. I had an unfortunate experience with the airport staff who demanded $2,000 to leave the country. Bribery is common in the airport, but I stood my ground. It seems Rama’s blessing––and maybe Kathmandu’s karma––was with me. Later, while sitting in the Amsterdam airport on another layover, I ran into my next-door neighbor and childhood friend on her way home from Greece! We were booked on the same flights to Detroit and Chicago. We sat together for the remainder of our trip home, grateful for each other’s company and sharing our adventures.

Rama’s tika on my forehead from three days previous was now a bloody-looking mess when I arrived home in Wisconsin, but I refused to wash it off. I laid in my bed, listening to Cat Stevens’s song, “ Katmandu*” over and over and over. “Katmandu, I’ll soon be seeing you,” he sang, “and your strange bewildering time will keep me home.” Yes, someday I will return home to Kathmandu, my Nepali family and friends, and the little Babu whose sweet giggles I miss already. But until then, “ Namaste, Nepal.”

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